BACK ROADS BILL: On Slate Islands rocks, fish and caribou

As you pass through Rossport, Schreiber and Terrace Bay you get glimpses of them. Grey masses offshore, distinctly rising on the horizon.

Some places you just want to go back to. The Slate Islands are a place to stay a while beyond the Lake Superior mainland.

One minute you're concentrating on fishing the green and the black, the next you see a caribou swimming between these backwater islands. The unique rocks are so special between the dramatic cliffs and deserted beaches.

A trip to the Slates can satisfy the senses of the outdoors enthusiast in several ways. For the angler, there is the excitement of landing and experiencing some of the finest red-finned lake trout anywhere. There are no caribou crossing road signs, but there should be. Keep your camera ready as they swim from island to island. For the kayaker/canoeist, it is an opportunity to explore the natural and cultural heritage within the protection of a group of islands. You are constantly landing and looking at all there is to see. And there are those uniquely coloured rock formations that make Lake Superior geomorphology so special.

The Trans Canada Highway, east of Thunder Bay, sweeps through rock cuts past small Canadian Shield lakes and red cliffs, skirting the cold sparkling waters of Lake Superior.

Isolated and uninhabited, the Slates are a circular cluster of two major and five smaller islands part of a large structure formed by the impact of a large meteorite. But the 15 islands, 13 kilometres (9 miles) off of Terrace Bay, are home to some of the best, natural lake trout in all of Lake Superior, and the most southerly herd of woodland caribou in all of North America.

Remnants of former mining and timber operations are located here. The islands are covered with a southern boreal forest with some arctic-alpine flora. The park boosts unique earth science features, including remarkable shatter cones, which are the remains of an ancient meteorite impact that resulted in the formation of the islands over 450 million years ago.

For adventurous anglers, it is an opportunity to enjoy more than just a little fishing. And if you're beachcombing, you could be as fortunate as the person who found one of only two artifacts remaining from the Edmund Fitzgerald which sank on November 10, 1975. Years later, and hundreds of km from the wreck, a life ring washed ashore on the Slates. It was eventually purchased by the National Museum of the Great Lakes in Toledo, Ohio.

Caldwell connection

This story has a timeline.

Doug Caldwell has now passed (2015) but when I first interviewed him, more than 25 years ago, he had been to the Slates for more than 40 years.

His obituary says: “He was always energized and at peace while out at the Slate Islands.”

His passion for this destination is missed and when I returned to the Slates near the end of this summer, his character accompanied me once again.

The former Kimberly-Clark pulp mill employee of 47 years was an Auxiliary Coast Guard member for 30 years. He used to be one of the few charters that could take you to the Slate Islands.

His uncle, Ed, was a lighthouse keeper on the islands for 31 years, manning the highest vantage point on all of the Great Lakes. When he first went there in 1928, the brass lamp had a double wick, operating much like a Coleman light, but much bigger.

He also knows the fish and the caribou.

"You have to troll where the green water meets the black," said Doug.

That is where the green hue near the shoals meets the deep water of the underwater cliffs. "Keep your boat along that line as you cruise the shoreline drop-offs.

“The red-finned lake trout is some of the finest broodstock in the province."

Spawners are used in the nearby Dorion fish hatchery operated by the Ministry of Natural Resources.

"This native lake trout population provides the genetic variability necessary for higher survival and production rates and increased vigour," Doug would say. "That's the only guide you'll need."

"You are amongst hundreds of caribou in a very unique habitat," explains Doug at one of the few retreats on the islands (‘Come and Rest’).

The buildings are old commercial fishing shacks that have been maintained by locals and are available to anyone who needs a safe haven.

"You can see them crossing between the islands at the closest points of land and at any time."

Fishing is good especially off of the points where feed is kept active by the currents and angling success occurs throughout the day. One to five pounders are the norm and bigger lakers are found on the offshore reefs. It's not hard to get your limit in a very short time.

Catches verify the fishery is very productive. A former volcanic rim has created a circular arrangement of islands. The geologic formation is a natural hatchery and sizes indicate a growing fishery. Small fish are found in the protected waters of the islands with larger 10-20 pounders in the open waters.

The lake trout fishery here is not in jeopardy. In fact, over-harvesting by anglers is not a problem. Commercial fishing is not permitted within 1.6 km (one mile) of the islands.

Past caribou watching

You notice a difference immediately when you come ashore to prepare a shore lunch or set up camp. Well-worn caribou trails, better than some man-made hiking paths, are everywhere crisscrossing the forest.

You also notice the marks of plant eaters. Despite what appears to be dense bush the vegetation at ground level is sparse.

The caribou here are different than the tundra caribou of the far north. On the barren lands, both males and females have antlers but on the Slates approximately 60 per cent of only the males have antlers. The males are also smaller, almost the same size as females.

Although the Slates have provincial park status it is mainly used by anglers, sail and power boaters from Minnesota, Wisconsin and Thunder Bay, and by kayakers and canoeists who make the adventuresome crossing of open water from Terrace Bay or use the shuttle service. There are limited park facilities. It is a destination to come to, prepared.

Back to what Doug told me. He watched wildlife researchers "wrestle the caribou” during tagging projects. He has seen a few "trophies" in the water during the recruitment of brood stock by the fish culture section of the province. (Many of the past caribou had an assortment of research tags in their racks, called "Christmas trees.") He recognized the importance of the islands for scientists and resource managers. As many as 600 caribou were estimated to be there at one point.

Doug explained that before 1907 there were no caribou on the Slate Islands. "According to a former lighthouse keeper, they came in the winter crossing the frozen ice, only to be stranded before spring break up."

About the time caribou on the Slates were starting to prosper, all the less isolated herds on the north shore of Superior were becoming extinct. Because of the large population, caribou have been corralled, tranquillized and airlifted to many mainland locations.

The caribou on the Slates have the ultimate defence - miles of open water - a challenge to wolf and man alike. But Mother Nature has played a major management role in large-scale population fluctuations.

"To explain the die-off, you have to understand the eating habits of the caribou," said Doug. "They eat summer foods similar to moose and deer but in the winter the caribou will not eat buds or twigs." In the winter caribou survive entirely on lichens from blowdowns (reindeer mosses and tree lichens or "old man's beard").

He said caribou cannot understand rationing at all, they eat until full. "Ultimately the caribou face starvation every winter." Strong winter winds knock down trees full of the vital lichens in their upper branches. Deadfall is everywhere and the branches are picked clean by browsing. But there are years when the wind does not blow long or hard enough and the caribou stand and wait, and finally die.

The present

As explained the first part of this story was reported a quarter of a century ago.

During this time span the caribou population changed.

In the winter of 2014, wolves found their way on the ice to both the Slate Islands. By 2017 they had eliminated almost all the caribou from the Slate Islands, near extirpation.

In the winter of 2018, nine caribou (eight adult females and one adult male) were moved from Michipicoten Island back to the Slate Islands. They joined the two remaining adult males.

There are now likely 30-50 caribou on the Slate Islands.

Allison Spadoni is the park’s Superintendent. Slate Islands Provincial Park (1985) is a non-operating Ontario Parks’ park. She said it is characterized by minimal facilities and staff. “When visitors arrive at the park, they can expect spectacular scenery and wildlife, pristine waters, and solitude.”

“The Slate Islands remain home to boreal caribou that began migrating between the islands via ice bridges in the early 1900s, with evidence of continuous caribou occupancy from the 1940s onwards. Boreal caribou are listed as threatened under the Endangered Species Act (2007). The population on the island is steadily increasing and visitors are reminded not to disturb, harass, or feed wildlife.”

The park has four access zones that are intended to serve as staging areas where minimum facilities have been installed to support visitor use and safety, such as three-sided shelters, fire pits, tent pad sites, and picnic tables.

“In addition to the access zones, designated campsites can be found throughout the parks for visitor use. All facilities are available on a first-come, first-serve basis, and are available for use free of charge; however, non-residents of Canada must secure a crown-land camping permit.”

Because of the water crossing, she said, “Visitors to the park are strongly encouraged to plan accordingly in response to changing weather and lake conditions.”

Map tour bullets

What you are receiving here within the digital data is an entire circular tour of the islands. See the map

If you go to the Slate Islands you will most likely see caribou and you will see magnificent scenery, particularly within the rock formations. Fishing is a bonus. You will want the paper topographical maps, 1:50 000 042D10 (PIC ISLAND) and 042D11 (SLATE ISLANDS).

There are two theories on the formation of the Slate Islands: the islands are of volcanic origin with subsequent faulting, folding and erosion; the islands are the central uplift cone of a crater resulting from a meteorite impact. The world’s largest shatter cone is found on the northeast shore of McGreevy Harbour on Patterson Island

For angling success Troll near the shore in 15-25’ of water. Take 12 lb spider wire fusion (green) fishing line and three-quarter ounce gold and blue/silver Little Cleo lures work well

You can see the now-closed pulp mill as you cross to the Slate Islands. Nearby Terrace Bay had the dubious distinction in the early 80s of having the worst pulp and paper mill in Ontario – this from Greenpeace citing the outpouring of effluent from the Kimberly-Clark pulp mill directly into Lake Superior. Much has changed and the mill is now an environmental leader in environmental control. The mill dates back to 1948.

You can see the mining adits (horizontal, exploratory shaft) on Patterson and Mortimer Islands, these were developed in 1899 and 1901. On the south side of Mortimer Island, it is on the east side of Copper Harbour/Lambton Cove (two local names for this bay) that almost divides the island. It is closer to where the bay narrows on the east side.

On the far west point of William Point on Patterson Island the mining adit) is situated near the point look closely through the leaves.

There are pukaskwa pits, early indigenous vision sites on the Slate Islands.

If you go ashore at the north end of McColl Island you will find remains of coal and the coal docks utilized during the commercial fishing and logging days of the 1930s.

The lighthouse on the south side of Patterson Island was constructed in 1902. Check the weather before you go. Your destination is Sunday Harbour. As you head towards William Point on the southwest side of Patterson Island watch for the arches and flowerpot-like rock formations

A number of distinct disjunctive plant species exist in this harsh, wind-swept environment including two rare finds. Drlyas drumondii is a species that is usually found on the southwest Pacific coast and Polygonum vivporum or as it is commonly called “smartweed” a delicacy to the Inuit and usually found in the high arctic

The Slate Islands caribou have the smallest body and antler size and the lowest degree of sexual dimorphism of any caribou in North America.

See the many raised beaches evident of higher Lake Superior levels thousands of years ago and related to the last retreat of the continental glaciers near the NW corner of Patterson Island, across from the south end of Edmonds Island. There is a small bay to come ashore. You can walk back into the back shore tracing the various shorelines of the past.

You can see the orange and white coloured volcanic intrusions along the west shore of McColl Island.

Access

A trip to the Slate Islands is a memory maker and the following information will add to your experience. This is one of those days to a week trip.

The Slate Island experience is best for the spring, summer and fall seasons. Fishing is best in the spring and fall.

At the time of this story, there is no longer a shuttle operator to ferry you to the offshore islands. You can kayak or canoe the 13 km (9 miles) from or launch your boat at the Terrace Bay beach. As mentioned in the story be prepared. Water crossings are on occasion delayed by the weather.

There are designated camping spots and safe anchorages on the islands. Two good camping locations are located at the northwest tip of Patterson Island across from the east end of Mortimer Island. On Patterson Island, there are two sites. Just to the south of this campsite is another tucked away in Fisherman’s Cove. This is also a good mooring location.

Two other campsites are on the south side of Mortimer Island. One is on the eastern side of the island, beyond Copper Harbour/Lambton Cove which almost bisects Mortimer Island. It is approximately one-third of the way down this shoreline on a small protruding sand spit. The other campsite is on the western side of Copper Harbour/Lambton Cove.

The Crown land cabins are not open to the public, remembrances of the commercial fishing days. One remains, called ‘Come and Rest’ situated near the southwest tip of McColl Island. It has had its share of tender loving care. It is not open to the public.

As weather permits it is a good day trip to paddle around the open side of Patterson Island. There is a federal lighthouse and plenty of coves and rock formations to discover.

Slate bound summary

Seeing wildlife, especially ungulates of this size is a privilege beyond all media. It is an opportunity that makes memories and fosters a better appreciation of the natural world.

I am not a competent fisher but the lake trout fishing is good, troll where the blue meets the green.

Humankind has let nature take its course on the Slates, in the natural regeneration of a valuable lake trout fishery and the feast/famine – predator/prey cycle of an insular herd of caribou.

Plan for a future visit, and stay awhile in this backwaters paradise. You will want to go back again and again.