In these chaotic and uncertain times, with looming tariffs and a significant election, it is sometimes difficult to think of celebrating, but I expect that we will still be ready to put those thoughts aside for next weekend, so that we can enjoy the time with family and friends.
Frequently people want to know what wine goes best with the traditional main courses, be it ham or turkey. Whatever you decide to feature, there are excellent “home-grown” wines produced here in Ontario.
With ham, one of the best white wines to serve is Riesling, and Ontario producers excel with this grape. In fact, Cave Spring Cellars Dry Riesling was featured in the April edition of the esteemed British wine magazine, Decanter. It retails for $16.95.
Giving it a score of 90, Decanter suggested that “racy lemony acidity balances the 7.5 g/L of sugar here, giving a crisp, dry Riesling that showcases wet river stones, crunchy yellow orchard fruit and delicate white blossom notes. The palate has decent weight with a creamy lime curd finish.”
If you prefer a bit more sweetness, the Cave Spring Riesling at the same price carries 13g/L of residual sugar. It is described in turn by the winery as being “off dry and medium bodied; creamy up front with a kiss of sweetness balancing crisp lime tones; in the middle, extracted orange citrus fruit is layered atop a rich, stony platform with round edges; delicate, saline acidity weaves its way throughout, driving a long, seamless and vital finish of citrus pith, wet stone, chervil and tarragon.” Yummy.
Should you prefer red, I would suggest either a Gamay or a Pinot Noir, both of which can be stellar here in Ontario. An inexpensive first example would be the Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir VQA at $15.95. It is smooth with a medium body and carries bright red berry and plum fruit,
The Flat Rock Cellar Pinot Noir, $24.95, has an interplay of ripe strawberry and orange citrus accompanied by some leather and cedar notes, finishing dry.
At $34.95, the Bachelder Les Villages Pinot Noir 2022, brings things to the next level. Writer Rick Van Sickle explains that there is “a profoundly floral note on the nose followed by dark cherries, crunchy cranberries, black raspberries, and elegant spices. It's round and silky on the palate with a melange of red berries, anise, a touch of spice and a layered, vibrant finish. Delicious and elegant. -91.
Gamay, the principle grape associated with Beaujolais, thrives in Ontario. Angels Gate Winery no longer exists. It was bought by Arterra, and the site is now the home of Le Clos Jordanne; however, some of their wines still remain available, and one of those is their Gamay Noir. Incredibly, it is just $12.95. The winemaker, Philip Dowell, was noted for producing wines “true to type”, and so this will be a fine example of a Gamay, The LCBO’s notes refer to vibrant and “lifted aromas of red fruit, rye bread, mushrooms, raspberry and strawberry. Extra dry and medium-bodied with fresh red fruit and berry flavours that dominate into the finish.”
This will work well with ham or poultry.
The Malivoire Farmstead Gamay, $21.95, earned a 91 from the writers at winealign.com. Half a dozen reviewed it, calling it compelling and “tart in the most beautiful way”, “bright, fresh, and juicy” and said that it is loaded with cranberry, raspberry and strawberry. It is not to be overlooked.
With turkey or chicken, you can also serve a good Ontario Chardonnay. Popcorn Chardonnay, $16.95 was created specifically for the Ontario market. “Garage “ Wines is listed as the producer, but the wine is made at Strewn in Niagara. Lightly oaked, this wine has flavours reminiscent of golden delicious apple accompanied by sensations of butter, nutmeg and lemon citrus at the end.
At $25.95, Bachelder L’Ardoise Niagara Chardonnay 2023, brings Burgundy to Canada. “Ardoise” is French for “slate”, and the name attests to the nature of the soil in which the vines grow on the 20 Mile Bench. The wine is perfectly balanced with toasted vanilla oak and ripe orchard fruit – pear, apple, peach – carrying a sense of minerality on a satin smooth palate.
Ontario makes good wine. This season, give them a try.
Vintages
With the current release on April 12, the LCBO has ceased mailing out bi-weekly catalogues, though they do provide an online version week to ten days ahead of the release. Below find some suggestions currently available for the two most recent releases, as well good buys coming on April 26. Note - the prices for the 26th may be slightly off, as the LCBO site still references last year’s releases.
Rosé
Plaimont Corolle Rosé 2024, $14.95, is a pretty wine from the southwest of France. It blends Merlot and Cabernet in a light and vibrant fashion with flavours of red berry fruit and grapefruit citrus.
Château d'Aquéria Tavel Rosé 2024, $24.95, from the heartland of Rosé, Tavel in southern France, is perennially the rosé against which all others can be measured. Much deeper in colour and more flavourful than most, it is bone-dry, luscious and deep, carrying sensations of pomegranate, strawberry and raspberry.
Pétalos de Aresan Tempranillo Rosé 2024, $13.95, from La Mancha in Spain, arrives on the 26th release. More rugged than the wines above, it is nevertheless refreshing and crisp. On its own or with food, it will please with its red fruit flavour and good acidity. One for the summer.
White
Tenute Orestiadi Molino a Vento Catarratto 2023, $14.95, from Sicily, earned a 91 from WineAlign’s David Lawrason: “this is a lovely soft, quite rich yet delicate unoaked white from local cataratto. The nose is generous but not blasting, with soft yellow fruit and florals - jasmine and linden, along with subtle bread and honey. It is medium-full bodied, elegant yet lively with a sense of volume yet restraint.”
Saint-Roch Corbarol Côtes du Roussillon 2024, $14.95, is an exceptional value from southwest France. Of the 2022, edition, Natalie MacLean wrote that “this an Old Vines Grenache Blanc and Roussanne white wine blend. Dry, full-bodied and vibrant on the palate with orange blossom, melon, nutty, brioche and tropical fruit flavours, it is creamy and citrus zesty with a mineral finish. Love the rounded mouthfeel on this wine. “ - 91.
SOHO Peggy Sauvignon Blanc 2023, $18, is a classic example of a New Zealand –style Sauvignon Blanc. It has a bright straw golden color with a slight greenish tinge. You will find a distinct scent of grass, gooseberry and citrus fruit. In the mouth, it feels sleek and crisp with lots of elderflower, tropical fruit and a refreshing acidity.
Red
Santos Lima Taverna da Aldeia 2021, $13.95, from the Dao region of Portugal is truly a bargain. The Wine Enthusiast writes, “this ripe wine is packed with black fruits, supported by tannins. Its freshness and mineral texture give a lighter contrast to the wine's concentration. Score - 91.”
Barathym de la Garrigue d'Aumelas 2022, $15.95, from France’s Languedoc, is new to Vintages. “Garrigue” suggests that there is a distinct impression of wild resinous herbs such as thyme and rosemary as part of the flavour component. The winery describes the wine as having “a beautiful ruby red colour with hints of violet. The nose is immediately marked by blackcurrant, and the palate offers joyous notes of garrigue and black olive. The whole is fruity, juicy and tasty. The liquorice finish is a delight, adding just the right amount of freshness.”
Bertrand Ravache Léo by Léo 2022, $15.95, is a merlot –based red from the St. Emilion region of Bordeaux. Not much is known about the 2022 Léo, but the British writer, Jancis Robinson, tells us that the wines of 2022 in general are extremely impressive. Of the earlier 2020 vintage, the Wine Enthusiast wrote, “the wine's black pepper and black-currant aromas lead to a ripe, Merlot-based wine with a full, jammy character.” - 91. Given that the suggested retail price for the 2020 was $25 U.S., we can expect the 2022 at the LCBO to be a steal.