Recently, a friend mentioned that the wine she regularly enjoyed was Pinot Grigio, and it got me thinking that perhaps it was time to take a closer look at what has become a fairly popular white these days, even though it doesn’t always have the greatest reputation.
In her Oxford Companion to Wine, Jancis Robinson acknowledged that in the northern region of Friuli, this grape produced some of the most admired wines of COLLIO, but that generally it was responsible for “a sea of reasonably undistinguished dry white with low aroma and probably the most noticeable acidity of any of the world’s Pinot Gris [the French name for this grape].”
She suggested that in Italy, the tendency was to pick it early, before full ripening, to avoid its notorious “rapid loss of nerve”.
As a result, there was an awful lot of Pinot Grigio that really didn’t distinguish itself, and I, for one, have tended to ignore it: still, given its current popularity, I have decided to shape up and pay attention.
So, what exactly is Pinot Grigio, and what does a decent example have going for it?
In addition to Pinot Noir, which gives us red Burgundy, and Chardonnay – also a Pinot- which provides the great whites of that region - there are a few other Pinot mutations that have earned prominence, such as Pinot Blanc, and, of course, our Pinot Gris/Grigio.
Pinot Grigio grapes, even in the same bunch, can range in colour from blue-gray to pinkish brown: when vinified, a little skin contact can give us a white wine with a slightly rose/bronze tinge – otherwise, we have a pale white wine.
(Wines labelled ‘Pinot Gris’, while made from basically the same grape, tend to emulate the style championed in the Alsace region of France, where they can be very flavourful and spicy, rich but dry, and a wonderful wine to serve with Asian cuisine.)
While many inexpensive PG’s haven’t developed beyond the level of ordinary plonk for which the wine was criticized in the past, the advances in viticulture and commitment to quality that have taken place in the last 25 years have resulted in many Pinot Grigios that are just fine, thank you very much.
As an Italian technical publication explained, quoting researcher Diego Tomasi, “the aromatic profile is determined genetically by each grape variety but its expression is modified by the climate and soil characteristics. Vineyard management (training system, bunch position, microclimate), leaf surface, grape yield per vine, health and harvest period all play their role”
Managing these factors and many others, and intervening positively, gives grape growers the opportunity to produce top quality fruit, and the result is high calibre wine.
Perhaps we shouldn’t overstate it with Pinot Grigio, but the fact is, if you do some research, you can find very good and affordable examples to enjoy.
Christopher Waters, writing in the Toronto Sun, recommends Graffigna Centenario Reserve Pinot Grigio (Argentina), $13.45, which is ripe and juicy with a crisp finish.
Wine Align recommends Villa Sandi Pinot Grigio IGT, $10.95, which has mineral notes and lemon flavours, as well as Chile’s enjoyable Cono Sur Bicicleta Pinot Grigio, $9.90, which impressed me with its pale coppery hue, significant depth of peach/orange flavours and refreshing finish – this wine actually approaches the style we associate with Pinot Gris, generally richer and more flavourful than typical Pinot Grigio.
New Zealand’s Monkey Bay Pinot Grigio 2014, $13.95, is also quite satisfying, with an almost creamy texture, followed by a hint of grapefruit zest at the tail end, with just a hint of the bitterness that grapefruit can carry.
The highest selling white wine in Vintages is from Italy’s north, Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio, $17.95, with "refreshing green apple, peach and citrus notes” according to Vintages – interestingly enough, the same wine sells for $28.99 in Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan – add exchange and Michigan tax, and you are close to $40 Canadian, so $18 isn’t so onerous after all.
All in all, Pinot Grigio is an unpretentious style of wine, but one that, in the right hands, will amply provide the pleasure and flavor you’re looking for, and at a very affordable price.
Vintages March 21 release
I am throwing down the gauntlet! We just have to start drinking more wine from the Vintages Corner. Every two weeks there’s a new release, but unfortunately, because of a backlog of wines in our store, they are having to put the brakes on what we receive, and so we are missing out on some doozies.
You can put in a customer order for them – by Monday afternoon the week prior to the release, and they might still be available.
That said, please don’t blame me for driving you to drink! (Just make sure, when you do drink, it’s the good stuff!)
Luca Laborde Double Select Syrah 2012, $24.95 (Argentina) is one example of a wine not destined for the Soo – critics score it above 90, calling it a full-bodied and meaty wine, combining dark fruit and savoury notes in a smooth package.
But. We are receiving some other worthy choices.
I am developing a real taste for Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie, and Les Fils Des Gras Moutons 2013 (Sons of the Fat Sheep???) would be a go-to white for those who enjoy Sauvignon Blanc, with its green apple and citrus bite and “chalky “minerality, as Vintages describes it.
Australia’s Sister’s Run Bethlehem Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, $15.95, took double gold in Sydney and is described as “elegant”, “fragrant”, and “supple” by Australian Guru, James Halliday.
Paul Jaboulet Aine with impeccable credentials in the Rhone region of France brings us a wine new to Vintages, Secret de Famille Cotes du Rhone 2012, $16.95, described by Vintages as dark and plummy with black cherry and spice notes, soft texture, and great balance.
Chile’s Bisquert La Joya Gran Reserva Syrah 2012 may be only $16.95, but it still ranked #57 in the Wine Spectator’s “Top 100” last year, which waxed ecstatic, calling it “open-knit, creamy and lush-tasting, with spiced cherry, dark plum and boysenberry flavors that ooze with rich, spicy notes.” Yum! – this should sell out quickly.
Happy Hunting, and Drink Well!