Recently, I spoke with Alex Patinios, President of Dionysus Wines & Spirits Ltd., for his thoughts on the new regulations for the sale of alcohol in Ontario. Alex is responsible for bringing to market a number of the best-value wines in the LCBO, including Fuzion from Argentina, Mare di Serena from Italy, One Pound per Acre Shiraz from Australia, and Toro Bravo from Spain.
I was interested in getting the viewpoint of someone involved in the wine trade on Ontario’s new alcohol reality as it all unfolds. As he has been in the business for over 30 years, he has a very good perspective and insight, one worth considering.
Alex explained that Convenience stores can now sell wine, beer and ready-to-drink (RTD) beverages. He believes, however, that with the minimum price floor for wine of $10.95, and stores only receiving a 10% cost savings in their purchases from the LCBO, we can expect the best deals to remain at our government stores. It is the convenience which will predominantly drive sales at the corner stores.
A recent change in the regulations will remove restrictions on where those beverages can be displayed in the stores, leaving it to the merchants to decide.
As for large grocery stores, apparently, only a few hundred have signed up, in part because of an obligation to handle recycling of empties. Sanitation issues with the returns could be problematic, particularly regarding food safety. It just might be one headache too many. In addition, there is a reluctance to carry RTD beverages, because of concern over the potential for a high volume of theft.
Currently, empties are returned to the Beer Store. Whether that arrangement will change is another question. One untended consequence of the new legislation is that some Beer Stores are closing, and at least one community in northwestern Ontario has lost its recycling option.
As for product, Alex explained that 40% of the wines carried by the private stores must be domestic, with at least 10% coming from small wineries or VQA wines. VQA, by definition, are wines made from grapes grown in designated areas of Ontario. Here in Sault Ste. Marie, we can expect that most will be wines available at the LCBO. Small VQA wineries can sell directly to stores, but they would be responsible for shipping. In cases like ours at a distance from the wine-growing regions, that could be cost-prohibitive.
The 60% that could potentially be foreign wines – something new for stores – would have to be LCBO general list wines.
As for restaurants, they are able to sell wine directly to consumers to take home. Apparently, it no longer has to be sold at the same price that it is listed on the menu for in-house sales, but how that will actually be handled remains to be seen, and could easily vary from restaurant to restaurant.
I asked Alex about the possibility of private wine stores. He thinks that there is a need on the part of both consumers and producers for such entities here in Ontario, allowing for product not carried by the LCBO to find their way to the market. We will just have to wait and see.
Alex expects that more changes are coming and that in 5 or 10 years, going to the grocery store in Ontario will look like anywhere in Europe with regard to the availability of wine.
What has found its way to the LCBO shelves and to our homes are many very affordable well-made wines that Dionysus Wines and Spirits has intentionally sought out and even crafted for our market. When Fuzion Malbec was first introduced, it jump-started the interest in what is now a very popular category, Argentinian Malbec. Toro Bravo Tempranillo/Merlot (now $9.95) from Valencia in Spain was also a tremendous success. In its turn, the One Pound per Acre Shiraz – also $9.95 - from Australia has been the #1 Shiraz in case sales over the past eight weeks.
Recently, Alex has been successful in having a few more stellar buys accepted by the LCBO. One, Tall Horse Chenin Blanc, $9.60, is astonishingly good. Chenin Blanc is probably the benchmark white wine of South Africa, where it often goes by the name “Steen”. One amusing thing about this brand is that the ‘Tall Horse’ image on the label is actually a Giraffe!
This wine rivals examples selling at more than double its price. The flavour is rich without being sweet. Carolyn Evans Hammond of the Toronto Star refers to lemon zest, grapefruit, pineapple and chiselled limestone flavours, calling it impeccably balanced. It has a lushness as well. She gives it a whacking 96. When you compare it to other whites in that price range, you can understand why.
Alex believes that consumers are looking for value, wanting to pay less, but getting more value for their dollar. He said, “You’re never going to sell a Chenin Blanc at $20 if people don’t know what it is.” The Tall Horse example is a great way to find out!
Very popular in other markets is the companion wine, Tall Horse Shiraz. It has been accepted by the LCBO and will be arriving on the shelves in the Spring of 2025.
Available in all our stores is the Lapin Bleu Merlot, $10.45, from France’s southwest region, Languedoc. Its impact is all French, with a smooth entry, round mouthfeel, dark fruit and the softest tannins just before a mild bitter note on the finish. Carolyn Evans Hammond refers to this endnote as an “attractive bittersweet chocolate” effect lending “texture and umami appeal”, and scores it 94.
A remarkable winner is the California red, Rose & Finch, $1 off at $10.95 until October 13. This is an exceptionally tasty red blend with almost equal parts in descending order of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel. It has significant depth and balance with lush cherry and dark berry flavours leading to a finish carrying a hint of mocha coffee and robed in gentle tannins. It is seriously good and with 8 grams of sugar per litre, the fruit shines while the wine remains dry. – 91.
Popcorn Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, regularly $17.95, is on sale until October 13 for $15.95. Crafted in Napa, California, it has an entry smooth as silk; then, it is expansive, luscious and mouth-filling, with perfectly integrated dark fruit leading to a lovely lingering finish. It carries a gentle and pleasing, totally suitable crunch at the end. At $18. it outperforms many more expensive Cabs. Classy and complete - 92.
Vintages
The LCBO continues to impress with great value wines on its Vintages releases, particularly in the lower and mid-priced ranges.
Still available from the September 7 release is the Eikendal Sauvignon Blanc 2023, $17.95, from South Africa. Reviews consistently remark on the tropical palate and stone fruit, with a lengthy crisp finish. Scores include Gold from a reliable French site and 90 from Ontario’s winealign.com.
Aveleda Alvarinho 2022, $14.95, is a crisp and creamy white from Portugal which also garners scores of 90 and gold medals. Expect a smooth and structured wine with an impression of peach followed by traditional citrus notes.
While the Senorio de Barahona Carro 2021, $13.95, from Spain and the José Maria da Fonseca Domini 2021, $15.95, from Portugal, are both sure bets, I would also consider some great Malbecs from Argentina.
The organic Piedra Negra Alta Coleccion 2023, $15.95, hit the mark for Ontario writer Rod Phillips, who gives it a 91, and the Salentein Reserve Malbec 2021, $18.95, is fresh, fruity and polished according to vinous.com – 90.
Worth seeking out is the Spanish Cabernet Sauvignon, Pepe Yllera, 2020, $20.95. Luis Gutiérrez of robertparker.com explains that “it is serious, fresh, juicy, velvety and balanced…This tasted like a much more expensive bottle of wine…92. One reason for the calibre may well be that it was elaborated with the advice of the French winemaker Jean Claude Berrouet. For about 40 years he was responsible for Chateau Petrus, the great red wine from the Pomerol region of Bordeaux. The 2020 Petrus sells for $4,900 a bottle, U.S.! Pepe Yllera, anyone?
This weekend brings us more terrific buys on the September 21 Vintages Release. There are three good rosés, starting with Spain’s Gran Feudo 2022, with an 89 at the Decanter World Wine Awards of 2023. Expect a herbal impression followed with “forest fruit notes” – and all this for just $12.95!
Ontario’s own Featherstone Rosé 2023, $16.95 is a blend of 41% Cabernet Franc, 31% Merlot and the rest Gewurztraminer. Rick Van Sickle writing on Wines of Niagara tells us “the nose pops with brambly red berries, anise, rhubarb and red currants. There is a touch of sweetness on the palate with ripe raspberry-cherry, red apples, a touch of citrus and a bright, lifted finish.”
Sault Ste. Marie’s own Sara d’Amato, a member of the winealign.com team, is very high on Chateau d”Aqueria Tavel Rosé, consistently one of the best reasonably priced rosés on the market. She calls it “a complex, deeply flavourful and vibrantly coloured rosé” and scores it 91.
In Whites, Man Free-Run Steen Chenin Blanc 2023, $16.95, is a gold medal option you could compare with the Tall Horse mentioned above. Here, only free-run juice is used (no pressing of the grapes), to preserve the clean character, refreshing acidity and ripe fruit flavours.
Red
Reino de Altuzarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 is a Spanish red lauded by Mike DeSimone of the Wine Enthusiast, saying that “bright at first sip, it has flavours of pomegranate and raspberry. Slightly hefty tannins settle into the palate, with notes of milk chocolate, cherry pipe tobacco and black-olive paste. Bright fruit remains at the forefront, lingering in the mouth. Score – 93. A heady score, and an amazing bargain at $12.95!
You’ll have to come up with another dollar for the Gandarada 2020 from Portugal at $13.95. The International Wine challenge 2022 picked up on “nice floral and peppery notes, older wood, a bit hard-pressed tannins, overall well-knit. Softer on the palate. Score - 95. (International Wine Challenge, 2022)
With what we save on these two, we could likely afford the Norton Privada Family Blend 2021, $23.95, a Platinum Award wine at the Decanter World Wine Awards of 2023. “40% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot. Lavish plump blackcurrants, blackberries and perfumed violets encased in a smooth backbone of deliciously creamy vanilla oak. Seriously concentrated and intriguing with an opulent leathery texture, velvety soft tannins and a lengthy tobacco-laden finish. Outstanding!” – 97.
Salut!