Thunderhouse Falls, it has that persona, the name says it all and it may be on your “list.”
It is winter now and this year, after seven of trying, it could also be the year when this story of a snowshoe trail to one of northern Ontario’s most scenic waterfalls reaches a climax.
There’s a winter snowshoe trail to an epic waterfall and community members in Hearst are trying to have it acknowledged for good reasons, naturally winter plus the other three seasons. Because of the terrain, it is not the type of trail either ATVs or snowmachines can access.
The first visit to Thunderhouse Falls (ThF) was in 2017 by water on the Missinaibi River. It had been on the list of “things to do and see” for quite some time.
ThF is located downstream on the Missinaibi River a Canadian Heritage River, designated for its significant Indigenous, fur trade and logging cultural heritage, outstanding ecological and geological natural heritage, and wilderness recreation.
Then there was an invitation to snowshoe into the brink of the gorge in the falls in 2018.
When people ask Back Roads Bill about the top ten destinations to visit in northern Ontario this destination ThF is now somewhere in the top five because of its four-season lure and the dynamic scenery of the steep walled gorge with cascading descending levels of dark turbulent water and pristine ice sculptures in the winter. It is surrounded by a jagged tree line representing a mature boreal forest. You become mindful of its contrasting sounds, deafening in the spring, some solitude in the winter. And there is the ‘Conjuring Rock’ midstream a pinnacle like no other.
Characters
This is a quote worth remembering. “Even when I'm not there, I'm thinkin' about it,” a lament from Marc Johnson. He was instrumental in marking out the trail and introducing it to the local communities. The disappointment remains as the trail has not been acknowledged by Ontario Parks despite many attempts by the community coalition.
Mark said, “After years of existence, and while there are no hard numbers on how many people have used it, anecdotally I know of between 800-1000 with a good many of repeat enthusiasts.
“Many have confided to me that ...’I've always wanted to see Thunder House Falls, but canoeing down the Missinaibi and back up scares me.’ This snowshoe trail has allowed me to finally see it."
“Since I blazed the trail, I’ve been in about 25 times. The first few years I brought in many groups thinking that once folks have been in once they can show others which has largely been the case.”
Mark has the support of well-known Elder Fred Neegan, born on the river, and who introduced Mark to the Missinaibi River. “Known as the ‘Guardian of the Missinaibi” he received an honorary doctorate from the University of Hearst in 2016. He was a big supporter of the trail proposal, and in the winter of ‘17 just before he died the following June, I brought him in.”
George Graham is retired as co-owner of Thunderhouse Forest Services – the company’s logo features ThF. He also proposed to his wife on the river. He has also been in the forefront of promoting the community trail.
“By snowshoe into ThF I've lost track. More than a dozen for sure.
“A gem? For this Claybelt dirt forester, it's a unique exposure of bedrock and canyon topography and pine forest for this region, it feels out of this local world when I get there. It's a spectacular last exposure (last gasp?) of the Canadian Shield before plunging into the expansive James Bay Lowlands, and Nature makes quite a show of it!
“There's nothing like seeing the Conjuring Rock, especially paddling up to its base and see it tower over you, humbling!
“Always hard work to get there, which adds to the drama. The Falls are quiet, and serene in winter, often shrouded with lacy frost and ice crystals. I've been there in summer in low water, where the flow is strong but calm, almost tame, and also after 3" of summer rain when it's raging with thunder. The river and falls change character so much they are never the same. A favourite place on Earth!”
He said since March 2022, “After 10 months, Les Raquetteurs have not heard from Ontario Parks about results of its submission to a Request For Information - Innovative Recreation Experiences and Services at Ontario Parks.”
Community plot
What has evolved is a community coalition of support.
The Mayor of Hearst Roger Sigouin is a seasoned politician and has been around the block more than a few times. He has 32 years of municipal experience and is an active outdoors person. He has led the community, that just celebrated its hundredth anniversary, since 2002, when he was appointed by his fellow councilors to fill a vacancy left by his predecessor. He put the importance of this trail in context.
“We are disappointed Ontario Parks has not acted on the proposals,” he said. “As a francophone community, there is enormous tourism potential for what could be a multi-season trail. We have tried to have meetings with the government that will result in some movement to have this included in the park plan but to no avail. ‘Missinaibi Provincial Park provides important economic benefits to local communities’ that’s what the park plan states.”
There was a round table discussion in Hearst, May 9, 2018. with representatives from Les Raquetteurs de Thunder House Falls. They presented to then Minister of Natural Resources and Forestry Minister Nathalie Des Rosiers regarding our proposal for our winter and summer hiking trails into Thunder House Falls. Marc said, “At the end of the discussion she not only admitted she wanted to go there, but promised a letter of support to continue the approval discussions with her staff.”
The dialogue continued on May 22 of the same year. Marc Johnson and George Graham presented the proposal for the winter and summer hiking trails into Thunder House Falls.
But there has been no action to date. In fairness, there was COVID and acting park superintendents at the local district level and four Ministers for the Ministry of the Environment, Conservation and Parks (MECP) since 2018 when the community coalition proposal was presented and then in again 2022 through the RFI.
Climax
What may be needed is an amendment to Missinaibi Park Management Plan, approved on March 17, 2004. The plan states, “It contains policies and direction that aim to achieve a consensus among the many and varied interests associated with the park and adjacent park-related land uses.” And, “As such, there will be a role for individuals and groups to continue to be involved with Missinaibi Provincial Park to ensure that interested persons contribute to ongoing implementation of the policies identified in this park management plan.”
There is an Ontario Protected Areas Planning Manual (2014), which includes provincial parks, and within Stage 8 (pg. 19) - ‘Examining and Adjusting Management Direction.’ It states: “management direction documents that have been in place for 20 years or more and shall determine the need for adjustment to, or replacement of, the direction.” With optional courses of action to amend the plan. Editing would be win for all.
Setting
All Trails is an international trail search engine site. It posts reviews by participants.
One is by Sylvain Veilleux, March 31, 2019. “The perfect day hike to Thunder House Falls on the last day of March. Sunny day all day, all little cool in the morning at -20 but warmed up to -3 during the afternoon. First 44 km of driving in a lumber road off of Hwy 583 North. Snowshoed a little over 9 km in the woods on a blazed trail. The snow was very hard in the morning and soften up in the afternoon but not enough for us to go through. It was an easy hike but could be harder when the snow is deep and soft.”
Another by Martha Heidenheim, February 7, 2020“The Thunder House Falls Trail is a pleasure to snowshoe. The forest is beautiful with open views under the canopy for great distances. There are many signs of wildlife along the way. Its great fun to go in small and large groups. Everyone finds their own pace on this long trail. I really like the way the Trail is only marked by blazes and there is no development. Thunder House Falls is always a special destination. The landscape's character changes so much in the last kilometre that you feel you entered a different world. The Falls are so subdued in frost and ice that belie its thunderous spring glory. Don't miss the spectacular Conjuring Rock while you're there!”
There are outfitters such as Follow Her North that guide people to ThF. Mylène Coulombe-Gratton is a young businessperson who has embraced northern Ontario tourism. She has digitally counted the steps, “42,000 of them” in and out. ThF is an important “guiding destination” and is one of her “highlighted adventures.”
“Thunder House is the most unique and impressive feature on the Missinaibi. It should be on everyone's bucket list.”
Ontario Parks was contacted through their Media Desk. And the query went through to the Strategic Planning, Issues Management, Coordination and Planning Section, based in Peterborough. The response: “The snowshoe trail into Thunderhouse Falls in Missinaibi Provincial Park is an unauthorized trail that was created without the knowledge or support of the Ministry of the Environment, Conservation and Parks (MECP).
“MECP recognizes the importance of getting outside to enjoy nature, especially during winter months. We ask that visitors who wish to spend time outdoors in Missinaibi Provincial Park use only the authorized provincial park access zones.
“We are aware of community interests in developing additional trails in the park. We have asked for a formal proposal to be shared with Ontario Parks for consideration. Ontario Parks would engage with the public, Indigenous communities and the local community on any proposed changes to authorized activities.”
Epilogue
Take a look Les Raquetteurs de Thunder House Falls on Facebook for a pictorial overview of the winter fun and visits to ThF in all seasons. Oh yes, for good measure there is an April 12, 2018 story entry from Back Roads Bill.
There are times during the winter when the trail is so hard-packed by snowshoes you can walk in with your winter boots.
For more information on trail conditions and logistics contact: ggrahamNA@hotmail.com or 705-373-0192.
During the other three seasons it is a canoe trip but in the winter you can snowshoe and help the community cause. From Hearst take Highway 583 north towards Lac-Sainte-Thérèse; at the 10 km mark, turn northeast on Thunder Road. This forestry road is a main haul road drive 44 km, taking no turns, and you will approach Renesig Creek (bridge), The winter snowshoe path is on the east side of the road and well-marked. Here’s the map.
ThF is a back-road snowshoeing experience, you will revel in the feeling of this sense of place. The characters should not miss the opportunity to finish the storyline or rewrite the script.