A recent article on Decanter.com by Master of Wine Natasha Hughes dealt with the issue of faults or flaws that sometimes show up in wine.
Sometimes a wine can be compromised by “trichloroanisole” -TCA- a chemical that makes a wine smell musty or moldy, and is often associated with a bad cork. In fact, you can often tell the wine is off just from the smell of the cork itself, and commonly we say that the wine is “corked”.
While screw caps and plastic closures may or may not be less expensive than cork, they have become more attractive sealing methods for many wines, as the incidence of wines being spoiled by corks has been estimated to be 10% or higher.
Not liking a wine you’ve ordered or purchased is not a satisfactory reason for returning it, but if the wine is clearly flawed, it should go back.
Another fault that Hughes identifies is ‘re-fermentation’, which happens when some residual sugar in the bottle starts to ferment and creates carbonation in the bottle.
We are not talking about sparkling wines, or wines such as Portugal’s Vinho Verde which are intended to have some “spritz” or tingle – but if you have a wine such as a Pinot Noir or Merlot with some carbonation, then you’ve got secondary fermentation in the bottle.
‘Oxidation’ with some wines is normal and intended, especially with sherries, and is part of the wine-making process; however, if a wine that is usually clear and vibrant is found to have a noticeable brownish tinge and an unintended bitterness, then likely it has oxidized, probably because of too much air contact for some reason. If you were to leave a bottle of wine that you’ve opened and uncorked on the counter for a couple of days, you might notice it has developed a bitter taste: oxidation.
Likewise, if a bottle has been aging for a considerable period of time, probably the level of wine in the bottle has dropped. This is not uncommon with wines sealed with corks as the wine ever so slowly evaporates, and the term to describe it is ‘ullage’.
When the ullage is significant, then the air in the bottle taking the place of the wine can cause it to oxidize, or even ‘maderize’ as it takes on characteristics similar to the sherry counterpart, Madeira. This was the case with the 1945 Burgundy we tried in February, where about one fifth of the wine had evaporated over the 70 years it spent in the bottle.
It was still drinkable, but was more like a nutty sherry than a wonderful Pinot Noir.
Sometimes what might be a flaw can actually enhance a wine, in the right proportion. At their worst, wines that have experienced ‘Reduction’ may smell like rotten eggs, but as Hughes explains, “a bit of gentle reduction can add complexity.” She puts the burnt match smell sometimes found in barrel-fermented Chardonnay or the smoky or flinty note found with some Sauvignon Blancs in this category.
If a wine smells like vinegar or like nail polish, the culprit is likely too much ‘Volatile Acidity’. According to Hughes, the bacteria responsible for VA thrive in high-sugar, low-acid environments, though she says a touch of volatility in dessert wines such as Sauternes may contribute to the wine’s complexity.
The LCBO is pretty rigorous in testing the wines it accepts for our market, and so the incidence of most of these faults is relatively low. I recall that last year, a chocolate flavoured red wine was taken off the shelves completely as there was widespread secondary fermentation going on in the bottle –there had to be yeast still in the wine when it was bottled, and the significant level of residual sugar was vulnerable.
Generally we want our wines to taste like they are supposed to taste, and generally, they do.
Saultlicious is back! Save the date, June 13, as once again local musicians, artists and restaurateurs will partner with Ontario wineries in a wine-tasting celebration that will conclude at the newly renovated Machine Shop at Mill Square.
The Algoma Residential Hospice – ARCH – and the Algoma Conservatory of Music will be the beneficiaries of this year’s fundraiser. Stay tuned for further information.
April 18 Vintages Release:
As usual, there are many attractive wines identified for our store, but unfortunately I’m not sure at time of writing which ones have made the final cut; so consider this a ‘wish list’, and check with the store early this coming week if there are wine you absolutely must have.
White
La Joya Gran Reserva Viognier 2014, $15.95, Chile, comes from a really reliable producer, so expect a medium bodied wine with honey-blossom fragrance and baked apple and peach notes on the palate, and citrus notes on the finish.
Hugel Gentil 2013, $15.95, Alsace, is an excellent and affordable blend of the white grapes for which Alsace is renowned – Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Blanc for the most part, and this wine with will provide great fruit and fine acidity perfect for fish, fowl and Asian cuisine.
Loosen Bros. Dr. L Riesling, $13.95, Mosel, is one of the best buys you could find in a traditional German Riesling, and has made top 100 best–buy lists for its off-dry and fruity perfection.
Chateau de la Bretesche Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2013, $13.95, Loire, is rated distinguished by jancisrobinson.com – I have really started to appreciate these wines which have great acidity and depth of flavour – and perhaps a little bit of that effervescence which in other wines could be considered a flaw. Crisp and satisfying.
Red
Falernia Reserva Syrah 2010, $18.95, Chile, was the best Chilean wine at the 2013 World Wine Awards of Canada, and has an opulent scent of dark fruit and spice, great depths of fruit, and excellent balance.
Mayu Gran Reserva Carmenère, $19.95, Chile, is a big red with fully ripened fruit creating “big smoky mocha aromas” and “a lovely weave of dried tobacco and espresso on the finish” according to Ottawa writer, Natalie MacLean.
Sister’s Run Epiphany Shiraz 2012, $15.95, South Australia, comes from Australia’s best vintage the last 20 years, and the 2011 earned an erobertparker.com 90 – it should deliver well above its price point.
Alpha Crucis Titan Shiraz 2012, $24.95, South Australia, with its ‘parker’ 93 should be stellar, and should hold for another 10 years, with a highly scented fruity nose, lots of complexity and depth. I would lay it down for a few years for sure.
Domaine Le Grand Retour Plan de Die Cotes du Rhone-Villages 2012, Rhone, is a perennial good value with good fruit and hillside herbal notes – garrigue – which should make this wine delicious.
Rosé
Muga Rosé 2014, $13.95, Spain, is one of the first new rosés for this Spring (so pretend its Spring, okay?), a dry and tangy blend of classic Spanish grapes – after our winter, it should give us hope!