Summer. Believe it or not, it looks like the weather is finally accepting that, yes, Virginia, there is a summer, and now we can contentedly contemplate what to enjoy when we are relaxing on our patios and decks.
Believe it or not, Rosés can be the perfect wines to enjoy through the summer – though they can do yeoman service all year, for that matter.
Unfortunately, many, when they hear the word “rosé” automatically think that pink is sweet, as was the case predominantly with ‘blush’wines from California.
Rosés may actually be the ‘Rodney Dangerfields’ of the wine world – they get “no respect.”
In fact, the classic Rosés which originate in the south of France are actually quite dry, with the sugar content relatively low at 2 to 5 grams per litre.
I like to think that a good rosé has a lot of the fruit we associate with a red wine, but a finish that moves far closer to the white end of the spectrum.
More flavourful than white, and much crisper than any red.
While they say you can’t judge a book by its cover, likewise, you can’t judge rosés by their colour, as even very pale examples can still surprise with more than ample flavour.
As for colour, rosés can be found that are almost clear as water – pale with just the faintest of pink hues – and from there go all the way up to a deep vibrant cranberry.
This week, I took an inventory of the rosés available to us at our Great Northern Road store, and discovered that there are more than 50 on offer.
If we are unfamiliar with the ‘genre’ the sheer volume of choice can be off-putting: an embarrassment of riches, as it were.
In price, you can expect to pay anywhere from $9 to $25, with most falling into the $13 to $16 range; the classic rosés from the very heart of Rosé Region, Tavel in Provence in the south of France, generally cost between $19 and $22.
Trying to decide which one(s) to try can leave us scratching our heads, and so, aside from trial and error, I tend to rely on what I have learned from experience or from what the experts have to tell me.
If there is an area whose wines you enjoy in red or white, consider trying their versions of rosé.
My preference is for wines in the dry but fruity range – not too light, but having good flavor depth.
I check the sugar content – which ranges generally from 2 or 3 grams per litre through 8 to 16 grams then up to 30 grams or more in the off- dry style, with one Aussie, Banrock Station Pink Moscato , $10.90, weighing in at 105 grams per litre of sugar! How sweet it is.
As I enjoy some flavour ‘oomph’, and a bargain, two rosés that have earned my patronage are South Africa’s Mulderbosch ($12.95) and Spain’s Muga ($13.95).
With Rosés, I like to look to the grapes; Muga is made from Garnacha – a very fruity red, Viura, a crisp white, and Tempranillo, a full-bodied dry red - the Viura is an interesting component, as, traditionally, rosés are made from red grapes exclusively, with skin contact kept to the minimum – just enough to provide the colour the wine maker wants.
Bodegas Muga intentionally grows the grapes for its ‘rosado’ on slopes away from the greatest sunlight to preserve the acidity rosés require. Muga proposes that their wine has more pineapple and peach than citrus and is over-all quite smooth.
Mulderbosch uses Cabernet Savignon, again grown specifically for rosé and emphasizing acidity.
The aim is for ‘fresh and pure’ with mineral and strawberry, and it is vinified as they do Sauvignon Blanc.
Coming on the June 13th Vintages release is an Ontario favourite, Wild Ass Rosé from Stratus Vineyards in Niagara.
‘Wild Ass’ is one of the secondary brands at Stratus, but that in no way implies second-rate.
When it comes to rosés, this has to be one of the deepest coloured and most richly flavoured examples on the market – At $17.95, this is intentionally big for a rosé, robust and deep - the perfect choice for someone who says they only drink red!
I would also recommend Tawse Sketches of Niagara, $15.95, a Cab-Franc based wine described by one blogger as ‘strawberry wine in a glass’ – though the LCBO considers it dry, easy-going and fruity. I trust the producer implicitly, and wouldn’t hesitate to try it.
California’s Sofia, $19.95, from the Coppola estates emulates the wines of the French Riviera, using Pinot Noir and Syrah - it is harvested carefully to emphasize elegance, zest, and cherry and strawberry, or even cranberry flavours. With 11 grams of sugar, it is just getting into the range where sweetness, if not noticeable, is at least on the edge of our periphery.
L’Orangeraie, $9.65, hails from the d’Oc region, so we are getting closer to ‘ground zero’ for rosés. An orange-pink, of course, it is a blend of Rhone varietals with 20% merlot, and hits well above its price point – in B.C., you would pay close to $4 more per bottle!
Turning to the Mecca of Rosé, Tavel, there are several examples, starting with Famille Perrin 2014, $19.95, which adds a savoury character to the mix, not unusual for a region noted for ‘garrigue’, the influence of resinous wild herbs which can surround the vineyards.
Delas Freres la Comballe Tavel 2014, $21.95 should be big and tangy – some say red grapefruit and rhubarb, while Chateau d’Aquéria (here on the 13th) is also $21.95 and a classic example displaying round and chewy red fruit with great complexity and minerality.
With that, we are just scratching the surface, and I would suggest that you will not be disappointed in exploring the broad range of wines available. Even the old classic from Portugal, Mateus, $9.75, with its pleasing effervescence and not-too-sweet character is still poised to provide ample pleasure.
At the Great Northern Road store you will find a wall of Rosés just as you enter, as well as a display back in the Vintages section – several others are peppered about on the shelves throughout the store.
Turning to the June13 Vintages Release, I am impressed by the number of ‘good value wines - $14 to $22, that it contains. I will mention a few that are not currently slated for the Sault, as they are, to my thinking, too good to pas up – if you want any, put an order in by Monday, June 8, and hope.
My first choice is the full-fruited Le Monde Pinot Bianco 2013, from Italy’s Friuli region, $17.95, with a top-score ‘three glasses’ from the esteemedGambero Rosso review of Italian wines.
At just $13.95, Essay Chenin Blanc/Viognier 2014, from South Africa will show great balance and fruit, having earned a heady 90 from the Robert Parker group.
California’s Central Coast brings us Silver Buckle Ranchero Red 2010, $21.95, a Best in Class’ Shiraz blend that has full dark fruit and loves beef.
New to Vintages is Les Anges Sauvignon Blanc 2013, $13.95, from the Val de Loire in France, described by the LCBO as “crisp, refreshing, and lithe”
Again, for these four wines, either order by Monday, or impose on friends in other locales to scoop some up for you.
Expected for sure are the following:
Famille Perrin Réserve Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2014, $14.95, blends Grenache Blanc, Rousanne, Marsanne and Viognier into a white that can be enjoyed immediately for its freshness or kept a couple of years to round out and develop some depth –expect some peach or apple notes, good complexity, balance and length.
Anne de Laweiss Collection Pinot Gris 2012, $17.95, is an off-dry and fruity choice from Alsace that will provide a light sensation of spice and good depth of flavour, a fine wine for those who don’t want anything too dry.
Sur de los Andes Reserva Malbec 2012, $15.95, from Argentina, will reward you, according to the Wine Enthusiast, with its “fully stocked, hefty palate…”ripe berry flavors and overall balance.”
Ninquén Antu Chilean Mountain Vineyard Syrah 2013, $17.95, is proposed to be ‘rich, weighty, ripe and voluptuous’ according to the Chilean Wine Guide, Descorchados 2014.
Viña Tarapaca Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, $17.95 has earned Wine Align’s David Lawrason’s approval for being “very focused and deep” as well as full-bodied, rich almost creamy yet [having] typical Chilean piquancy. – great value, 91.
Oscars Estate Vineyard Shiraz/ Viognier 2013, $18.95, a regular favourite from Austraila’s Barossa Valley, is suffused with deep dark fruit with pepper and spice notes, and would be worth comparing to the ‘Ninquén” from Chile.
Zeni Costalago 2012, $15.95 from the area around Verona uses traditional Valpolicella grapes along with Merlot and Cabernet to produce an ‘Appasimento’ styled red that is delicious – it spends two years in oak before bottling, and will please fans of ‘ripasso’ immensely.
Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha 2012, $19.95, is described by Robert Parker Jr. as “one of the finest inexpensive Grenache-based wines in the world” with “loads of strawberry and black cherry fruit…and a broad savory mouthfeel” – 92.
Winerack Stores are offering Saint-and-Sinner Shiraz Cabernet for $10.95 or 12 for $120. It has decent fruit and some heft with a slightly bitter, but pleasant note on the finish. It is worth trying.
Some tickets still remain for Saultlicious, which promises to be a most enjoyable evening with Ontario wineries and local eateries.
The finale at the Machine Shop, the Grand Bazaar, will not only feature more fine food and wine, but will also offer all kinds of goods for sale, both food stuffs and artisanal goods.
Cost is $150, with tax receipts for a $50 donation to Arch and the Algoma Conservatory of Music.
Visit the Mill Market or call Mary Ledlow of Vinaissance at 705-946-2503 for tickets.